Vitamin C
A potent antioxidant that helps neutralise free radicals and supports a brighter, more even-looking complexion.
Vitamin C (most commonly listed as ascorbic acid or L-ascorbic acid) is a water-soluble antioxidant found naturally in the skin. In skincare, it belongs to the antioxidant ingredient class and is one of the most widely studied actives available over the counter. Its core mechanism involves donating electrons to unstable free radicals generated by UV exposure and pollution, which helps limit oxidative stress on skin cells.
In formulations, vitamin C appears in several forms. L-ascorbic acid is the most researched and is typically effective at concentrations between 10–20%, formulated at a low pH (below 3.5) to aid absorption. Derivatives like sodium ascorbyl phosphate, ascorbyl glucoside, and magnesium ascorbyl phosphate are more stable and gentler, though they may work more gradually. The vehicle matters too: well-formulated serums in airtight, opaque packaging help protect vitamin C from degrading when exposed to light and air.
For your routine, vitamin C is generally applied in the morning before sunscreen, where it can complement UV protection by scavenging free radicals that sunscreen alone doesn't catch. It pairs well with vitamin E and ferulic acid, which studies suggest can enhance its stability and antioxidant capacity. If you're using exfoliating acids like AHAs or BHAs, introduce vitamin C gradually to see how your skin responds, as layering multiple actives at low pH can sometimes cause irritation, especially when you're starting out.
Honest caveats worth knowing: vitamin C can oxidise quickly in poorly packaged products, turning orange or brown, which signals reduced effectiveness. It does not replace sunscreen, and while evidence supports its role in promoting a more even-looking skin tone and supporting the skin's natural firmness, it is not a guaranteed fix for pigmentation or ageing concerns. If your skin is particularly sensitive or reactive, start with a lower concentration or a gentler derivative, and consider speaking to a skincare professional if you experience persistent irritation.
In formulations, vitamin C appears in several forms. L-ascorbic acid is the most researched and is typically effective at concentrations between 10–20%, formulated at a low pH (below 3.5) to aid absorption. Derivatives like sodium ascorbyl phosphate, ascorbyl glucoside, and magnesium ascorbyl phosphate are more stable and gentler, though they may work more gradually. The vehicle matters too: well-formulated serums in airtight, opaque packaging help protect vitamin C from degrading when exposed to light and air.
For your routine, vitamin C is generally applied in the morning before sunscreen, where it can complement UV protection by scavenging free radicals that sunscreen alone doesn't catch. It pairs well with vitamin E and ferulic acid, which studies suggest can enhance its stability and antioxidant capacity. If you're using exfoliating acids like AHAs or BHAs, introduce vitamin C gradually to see how your skin responds, as layering multiple actives at low pH can sometimes cause irritation, especially when you're starting out.
Honest caveats worth knowing: vitamin C can oxidise quickly in poorly packaged products, turning orange or brown, which signals reduced effectiveness. It does not replace sunscreen, and while evidence supports its role in promoting a more even-looking skin tone and supporting the skin's natural firmness, it is not a guaranteed fix for pigmentation or ageing concerns. If your skin is particularly sensitive or reactive, start with a lower concentration or a gentler derivative, and consider speaking to a skincare professional if you experience persistent irritation.
